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Is there anything that isn’t said already about Manila? The Capital of the Philippines, once dubbed the “Pearl of the Orient” or “City of our Affections” (I prefer the latter, hehe!), has all the right and wrong ingredients to star in its very own city-flick thriller.
Asked anyone who’ve been there about this city and its either a hate or love affair.
It is after all just another big city bustling with activities, filled with millions of people, cars, bikes, fumes, colors, smells – almost like any other metropolis in Asia. Or isn’t it?
Having been in Manila about half a dozen times for a few days only, the city still always captivates me with its energy and zest for life. The contrasts between rich and poor are obviously visible at every corner – but in my view, this has even more attraction to the wandering eye.
City with no limits
Everything is possible in Manila. Everything that you will allow to happen.
For an European setting foot into this city for the first time, things can be a bit disturbing. People will approach you wanting to chit-chat with you, everyone seems to sell something, from street vendors with mostly fried or sweet snacks, to money changers advertising their rates in person outside their offices, to vendors offering Viagra, lottery tickets, peanuts, cigarettes, newspaper or shabu, which is best to be avoided.
Manila, similar to Bangkok, is also a city to make old men feel young again. The widely use of the English language gives the city an edge over the other for many.
“Maynila” – how the locals call it – is somehow like a women, gorgeous and wild, capricious, sometimes grumpy, yet most of the time mysterious, hard to understand or even to explain.
My last visit to this place was about 3 years ago and somehow it feels less polluted, more colorful yet still the same chaotic and choking. The streets also appear cleaner, although that might be only my illusion, coming from India, which probably is a complete different league in that regard.
Ongoing construction and potholes are everywhere, as usual.
Crime, what crime?
Of course you heard all the horror stories, people getting robbed in broad daylight, kidnappings and hostage situation in hotels and all that. While that obviously isn’t something out of a science fiction novel, things on the ground look a bit different. You have to ask yourself, how often do these things happens (once in a blue moon) and what are the chances of being in the wrong place at the wrong time (which could be anywhere on this planet).
Police and even military personnel carriers with mounted guns show a strong presence here. But it doesn’t feel like a warzone or dangerous place to avoid.
The Manila mood is genuinely friendly – everyone is going after his or her own business. Policemen sitting on the roadside, smoking, laughing and greeting you the foreigner with a hand wave or friendly “Hello – how are you?!”.
Vendors in general know when to back off, they won’t bug you to buy anything too long, a friendly “no, thanks!” or hand sign is usually enough. I never had anyone following me more than 5 meters or screaming at me to buy something; very rarely – if at all – somebody touches you or pulls your arm; something that is pretty-darn normal in India or even in Bali for instance.
I never felt threatened or in danger at all here. Even walking around at night, people stay mostly friendly, just avoid eye contact with obvious drug dealers, if you are in a shady area.
Just follow common sense.
From my view, all you have to do is maintaining a low profile, wear casual clothes, no gold chains, Rolex watches, or wads of cash hanging out of your pockets; put on a smile yourself and let your genuine curiosity take over.
Respect the street people, don’t look down on them, be friendly, say “thank you” and “excuse me” when appropriate and people will respect you also and won’t invade your space at all.
Shopping, Snacks or Fine Dining
So what would you do, when you have a few days in Manila to waste? There is basically shopping, eating and nightlife. Manila hosts some of the largest malls in Asia and they are well up to international standards.
While Singapore certainly has the most shopping malls in the most dense area, it somehow lacks variety. In most Singapore malls you have the same shops and franchises over and over again. Giordano, Zara, Body Shop, Watson’s and Guardian, maybe a few Starbucks, Spinelli’s or Coffee Beans thrown in. Isn’t it funny that many Singaporeans love to fly to Bangkok or Hong Kong for shopping?
In Manila, variety rules. The smallest Robinson mall is an exploding experience of sights, smells and sounds. And I don’t even talk about the larger SM Malls or the gigantic Mall of Asia. Clothes, games, gadgets, telephony, music, beauty services – you name it, they have it.
Affordable food options are abound. Sure enough, you can find Westerner’s favorite fast-food chains like McD, KFC, Wendy’s, Pizza Hut and all also, but you would miss out. Most malls have also countless of other food empires, many of them you’ve probably never heard of back in your home country. You can get excellent international food for small money here. 
Food Courts offer meal portions in the 80-200 Peso range, while smaller restaurants offer whole menus of Japanese, Korean, Chinese, Thai, German, American, Malay, Persian and of course Filipino cuisine. Eat Davao Tuna Dishes just side by side with Italian Pasta or Hong Kong Dim Sum.
Hope you haven’t spent your last dime yet? Because darkness is falling but the night is still young.
Nightlife to live out
Make your way to one of the countless karaoke joints, bars and nightclubs around. I prefer going to places with live music – and Manila has plenty of those. As we established already, Filipinos are talented singers – in most holiday destinations or hotel lobbies around Asia you will find mainly Filipino bands and singers.
And Manila is no exception. Just walk around before dusk and simply follow your ears.
If you are a single gentleman, you could combine this with hunting for other pleasures also. I don’t want to give you any ideas, but most Filipinas are a pleasure to the eye, always smiling, polite and friendly and deal gently with men. But everything is totally up to you, of course.
In the Ermita area, you could go for instance to the “L.A. Cafe”, which offers (besides one floor of freelancing girls and women) excellent live music on the 2nd floor. The girl to guy ratio in here is something around 25:1 and you will feel like a kid in a candy store.
Why not be King for a day, right?
Drinks prices are decent and you can simply hangout, watch the scenery and sip your San Miguel or Red Horse beer. This place is open for 24 hours with half-day long happy hours of discounted prices. If there aren’t many people in yet, you can even enter the stage and use the mic to sing your own song or two. Show those American Idol suckers who really has the best (or loudest) voice!
Where else in Asia can you have a feast for your eyes, listen to or make your own great live music and an ice-cold beer for 75 Peso all in one place?
Or are you feeling hungry again?
Head over to “G-Point Bar” for some Frankfurter’s, Wiener’s, Steaks or Japanese Sushi Dishes and some German EKU Pilsener, Oettinger Hefeweizen or other, local or more international beer brands. This place features a different live band every night and is a favorite hang-out place of butterflies, honey bees and other creatures of the night. Expect lots of sweet smiles, winking eyes and even chick fights during later hours as entertaining attractions. Hah, women and politics!
If you are in need of recommendations or even medical support (maybe your company grew suddenly to 3 and you’re feeling or *are* a 70-ish-year old), simply ask the friendly security guard or bouncer for quick, yet discreet procurement even at early morning hours.
Is there anything else you will need for your very own “Thrilla in Manila”? 
Myself I like to stay in hotels near the airport or close to Roxas Boulevard. Here’s the most hotel competition and rates are more reasonable for what you get for your money.
You can find decent hotels or guest houses for 700 Peso and up per night.
A nice 4-star hotel, very clean and complete with kitchenette, aircon, stocked mini-bar, breakfast and cable TV and near Robinson Mall will cost you around 1.500 to 2.000 Peso per night.
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Staying in Manila for a few days, it feels to me like Manila is always on your side – but will you be on hers?
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May 20th, 2009 at 9:51 pm
Great post about Manila! Couldn’t think of a better way to describe my city!
Strange, the last time I was there, I also thought it was cleaner….
Cheers!
Cathy
May 21st, 2009 at 9:30 am
Hi Chris, I’ve really enjoyed your post on Manila. It seems you’re having a good time there. It’s nice to see that you have chosen the Philippines (my stomping ground) as your new host country.
Well, I just want to say, if you’re interested, please come down to the Visayas and meet myself and my wife! We’re both in our 20’s and I’m sure you’ll enjoy spending some time with us
Where do you plan to settle?
We are in Negros Oriental!
Ok, that’s enough from me for now.
Tom. =D> =D>
May 21st, 2009 at 1:18 pm
Wow Cathy, I can’t think of a better compliment – and that’s from you, a true-blue Manila Gal. Many thanks! ;;)
Hey Tom, what a nice offer, thank you! Yeah, we are planning to move someplace in Negros also, probably Dumaguete in Oriental first, or Bacolod in Occidental, as it seems to be cheaper living there with better infrastructure. Another option could be Iloilo on Panay, but let’s see how we’ll like it on Negros. I need the ocean closeby for a daily swim, good security/safety, flexible internet (so far I use prepaid Smart Buddy 3G, which works flawlessly and pretty fast here in Manila) and a good variety in food options. Can’t wait to explore the surrounding volcanoes, waterfalls and springs in Negros…. :D
May 21st, 2009 at 3:29 pm
Hey Chris. Very cool,
well, we live in Bayawan city, a sleepy little city about 60km away from Dumaguete. It’s not really in any of the “lonely planet” type books, but in a sense, that generally makes for a better adventure!
I would love to know when you’re coming here to Negros Oriental (Esp near Dumaguete) and we would love to show you some hospitality — Hospitable – we’re an Irish Man and a Filipina! That’s hospitable!
Thanks
Tom.
May 21st, 2009 at 4:22 pm
Tom, that sounds really very interesting. I just sent you an e-mail, so we can discuss further.
May 21st, 2009 at 4:25 pm
oops, I made a mistake, I meant 100km!
May 21st, 2009 at 4:53 pm
Hello Chris, Glad to see you are back onyour travels, I’ve missed your posts. Hope you had a nice time back in your home country. This reply is not really to do with Manila which I don’t know (I would give my right arm to go there but I don’t suppose its feasable at my age and my income. But when you mention the sharp salesmen tactics in Goa of grabbing hold of the victim, I recalled an amusing incedent I had about three or four years ago. At that time the favourite scam was for the local sharks to get dressed up in what they thought was “medical” clothes, i.e. have a shave and a bit of a suit, carry a medical looking case, have some small swabs in one hand and hidden in the other hand a lump of dubious looking grease. They would then claim to anyone daft enough to listen “Oh,Oh quick, you have terrible wax in your ear, come here quick and I will get it out for you” then produce swab, stick it in your ear, quickly transfer the engine grease from one hand to the swab and show the victim—then claim the reward!!! This day I was in the middle of Calengutes milling throng when I was grabbed from the right side by one of these merchants, but, fortunately, I was wider awake than I usually was and I shouted “No, No not that side—do the other ear please.” For many years I have worn an inear hearing aid on the left side, so this is what he saw!!! Much to the great amusement of other tourists behind me Mike
May 22nd, 2009 at 12:03 am
hey mister how long are you staying in manila? i remember you telling me about their 2-year visa plan. is that what you’re up to over there? we almost put manila into this trip, but tickets were too much. maybe next time. anyway we miss you and miss r. greetings from pattaya!!
May 22nd, 2009 at 8:38 am
Mike, that is an hilarious story! It’s really amazing to what great lengths those touts and scammers would go! Thankfully that isn’t the case here in Manila and I’m sure, even at your age and income you could afford it. But it’s up to you for sure. Yep, I’m excited to explore all the natural wonders the Philippines have to offer and hope to come up with more interesting articles soon.
jerm, hey guys!!! I know, we still owe you a longer e-mail – will be on the way in the next few days. How do you like your trip so far? What were the milestones already. Now in Pattaya? Oha, hard stuff! How is the ocean there this time around? Did you make it to Phuket also?
In Manila we’ll only stay a few days, then its off to Negros, an island further to the South West here. It will be much cheaper and more nature, for sure. Big cities are usually enough after a short time. All in all we plan to stay at least 12 months here. Send my regards to Miss Couture and let’s exchange some pictures via e-mail again! ;;)
May 22nd, 2009 at 11:42 am
we didn’t make it to phuket this time around. pattaya’s pretty cool, much like bali but maybe 10-20 years ahead. lol. at first we were pretty impressed but after a few days all the “effects” start to wear off. imho kuta beach is much nicer beach and water wise. the water here is green and full of silt. we went snorkeling and all the colors turn green down there we have to dive close to the corals in order to see the real colors. we’re also skipping cambodia and laos due to my bad neck. yeah i know i feel lame. but we’re young and there’s always time for more later! :D we’re heading back to bangkok today to spend some time with our couch host then we’re off to hong kong for a few days.
negros sound good. never heard of it though. i’ll google it as soon as we hit bangkok. and we’ll also try to email you some pics from there too.
take care guys!
May 23rd, 2009 at 8:52 pm
jerm, yeah, the one time I was in Pattaya I got skin rushes when swimming in the ocean there. But that was maybe only me; I just always liked the beaches on Thailand’s west coast better.
What happened to your neck? Too much naughty massages? :D
Anyway – enjoy the rest of your trip! Sounds like a great way to explore. Thailand alone is worth more than 1 trip. Cheers back to you guys and lot’s of hugs from/to the girl(s).
May 24th, 2009 at 3:15 am
Hi Chris, found the site ok and will visit regularly now. Glad you are both fine. This Negros place sounds good, still have no idea where in RPI to head for in November, will check it out later. Bye4now
May 25th, 2009 at 5:58 pm
Johnny Five, nice reading from you guys again! Glad that everything worked out with your visa issues. For your first-time visit in the Philippines you *have* to go and see Boracay, even if you aren’t 100% a beachcomber. Puerto Galera also looks pretty similar to what you are used to from Goa. And I can also personally recommend Bohol, because of the manifold activities there, whitewater rivers, Tarsier monkeys, Chocolate Hills, Beaches, Churches and Food. Base yourself near Alona Beach on Pangalo Island and check out the rest of Bohol with a rented bicycle. You won’ regret it.
May 25th, 2009 at 6:04 pm
Chris, I just checked out Bacolod and Dumaguete on Google Earth. They both appear to be without any beach, did I get this right? How are you going to practice your daily swims?
May 25th, 2009 at 6:28 pm
Good question, Jurgen. That is insofar correct, that there aren’t many wide-stretched white beaches on Negros, like we know them from Thailand or other islands in the Philippines (Boracay, Bantayan, Malapascua, Bohol, etc.).
But you can still jump everywhere into the ocean for a swim, which I did just today somewhat north of Dumaguete. It’s refreshing and nice as anywhere! Only the sand is grayish, volcanic – similar to Bali beaches.
Myself I changed quite a bit over the last couple of years; while I was before pretty addicted to white/sandy beaches and in search for the best ones, I spent many days and afternoons at them, this changed somewhat for me (maybe too many sunburns, hehe). I’m nowadays happy to go for a short swim around 4-5pm, when the sun is a bit lower, but don’t have to laze around a beach for hours anymore. Also I’m looking now for other amenities, that the infrastructure is okay, internet existant, an abundance of other activities and so on.
The main problem I’m currently facing is the lack of affordable apartments to rent on a monthly basis. I’m even thinking of buying a small bike with sidecar (to stay more flexible) and simply drive us around the Philippines islands and just staying in hotels only. Let’s see, everything’s still cooking…. :D
May 25th, 2009 at 8:53 pm
Hey, that sidecar idea is really great! It’s for carrying your luggage, right? Is it easy (in terms of paperwork) to buy a motorbike in the Philippines?
Ah, and I just read that you’re going to stay 12 months in the country, I’m planning to spend next winter there, after my 6 months in Bali.
Maybe we can meet somewhere and I can buy you a beer…
May 26th, 2009 at 7:22 pm
It looks at least easy enough. So far I’m almost sure that this is a good way forward. We can move our luggage around convenient enough and are flexible regarding transporting options, almost completely independent from public transport or taxis. I figured so far I’ll need some ‘exam’ which can be made at any bigger bike dealer and have to register the bike as well as the sidecar in my name. Will take a few more days/weeks, but would definitely be something new and interesting to try for us. Just imagining myself steering my very own tricycle from island to island, hah! :D
And of course! Let’s have a couple of beer when catching up – here or someplace else!
May 29th, 2009 at 8:27 am
Hi Chris – looking forward to reading more of your articles on the Philippines. Great to see a bit of a different perspective.
May 29th, 2009 at 6:52 pm
Randy C, thanks for the heads-up! Will try to come up with something interesting at least once a week as usual.
May 31st, 2009 at 11:37 pm
Great and you noticed the Manila friendliness
Must be quite different from your Goa experience 
June 1st, 2009 at 2:45 am
manila is justa a common place..but theres alot of new unique things coming, that none in other progressive,rich and luxuriant country..
Manila is a big place..what u’ve mentioned is just a dot of manila,i just hope that you can experience the new and innovative manila.
June 1st, 2009 at 7:55 am
hi! Chris. I’m planning to visit next week-end my beloved country. i’ve been living abroad for 17 years and at least every 3 years i go home, most of the time with my kids. this time it’s different as I will be going home alone… that is why, wanting to enjoy every minute, i am surfing in. that is how i found your post. nice one and i am sure i could use it myself.
thanks a lot.
Sheila
June 1st, 2009 at 10:25 am
dodong flores – definitely, that was a difference like day and night. Will probably write a post about that some time over the next weeks.
feimui, for sure the above is just a small dot in the urban jungle that is Manila. But I also had only a few days time. Hope to return and find out more about the modern Manila you mentioned. Any tips on where to go and what signs to look for?
Sheila, all the best for your trip! Must be a strange feeling coming home after that long time. Please tell us more about the differences between the people of Spain and the Philippines! :D
June 2nd, 2009 at 11:25 pm
hmmm a lot of beauiful places ,hard to say all and describe whats in there,have you been to the fort,libis,tiendesitas,rockwell im sure you know that..quezon city part…etc.
but for me all those modern manila are just common places.what most stealh my attention are those philippines natural resources.
for you to find out visit ..WOW Philippines.
have a happy trip..mwah mwah mwah…:bz
June 3rd, 2009 at 5:44 am
feimui, no never made it there – yet. Will probably try next chance to see more of Manila. But until then – agreeing with you – the natural wonders of the Philippines interest me much more.
June 7th, 2009 at 2:19 pm
Hello Chris sounds like you are having fun and your writings have brought attention to my eye! I will be coming to the Philippines in July with my Filipina GF Me the same as you been to Thailand Pattaya and all the other places but have grown a bit bored of those places now. Currently i am in China working as a School teacher but have me semester holidays in July so a couple of months r and r is just the thing i am looking for. The lastime i was in the Philippines was in 1996 so i bet things have changed alot. Looking forward to having a few beers with the expats who are residing there also. I would say the drink prices there would beat the hell out of me paying huge prices in Temple bar in Dublin. Your article has brought a giggle to myself and my girlfriend today. Cheers mate.
June 8th, 2009 at 8:07 pm
Trevor, sounds you live a very interesting life also! Yep I bet you will enjoy your R&R here in the Philippines, my first visit was only in 2002, so I can’t comment on the changes since 1996, but I must admit that things changed somewhat to modernity I feel. There is less trash and I enjoy fast and affordable 3G internet wherever I went so far. The beer is still the same affordable, especially compared to places like Hong Kong or Singapore. :D
Let me know, when and where you are heading in July and maybe we can arrange a few cold ones.
June 8th, 2009 at 11:13 pm
Trevor: I lived my last 14 years of my life here in Manila and have seen major changes Manila went through. If you came to Manila in 1996, there was only one train system during that time. Now, there are already three train system traversing the metropolis.
The volume of vehicular traffic had reduced a lot the past ten years. For example, in the mid-1990s, it will take you three to four hours to travel from Quezon City to the airport during rush hour. But now, it will be only more or less one hour.
Malls now proliferate in different spots in Metro Manila and the outskirts as well.
So many changes that may amaze you once you get back here. Come see Manila again for yourself and see the difference in 13 years time…
June 10th, 2009 at 3:32 pm
Chris!!!!!
You in the beautiful Philippines!!! Have you found that perfect spot to park your butt on in Negros?? Let me know since we are planning of coming there Negros Oriental + Siquijor! Do contact me on my email! Going around Luzon these past few weeks and we might finish Luzon in the coming months and then we head out to Visayas and Mindanao.
Cheers!
June 10th, 2009 at 8:00 pm
Yep – it’s about time again, don’t you think, Ryan? There is no perfect spot yet, but I’m looking and exploring something new every day. Starting tomorrow to leave Dumaguete and go direction Bacolod and Iloilo on Panay. We should stay in touch, as we will probably bump into each other somewhere along the way…
Dodong – thanks a lot for helping out here – as always!
June 10th, 2009 at 9:03 pm
Hit me with an email soon whenever you are in Manila. Going to Ilocos tomorrow.
Cheers!
June 10th, 2009 at 11:46 pm
You’re always welcome, Chris
June 12th, 2009 at 11:22 pm
Thanks Chris,
This is some great advice. I am on my way to Manila tomorrow!
June 13th, 2009 at 10:48 am
Have fun and enjoy the city, Migration Mark! And best of wishes back to Singapura, my home away from home!
June 22nd, 2009 at 9:58 am
Hi Chris, I’m new to you blog. Glad to know you enjoyed Manila, as this is where I am originally from (now living in Toronto, Canada). I haven’t been back to the Philippines for 5 years now; it seems like it’s still the same yet different. Thanks for a trip down memory lane!
June 22nd, 2009 at 9:37 pm
jen laceda, new is always good. You are most welcome! You might want to check out some of the most popular posts (see lower right sidebar), click on a topic you like in the topic cloud (upper left sidebar) or simply use the search function to the right to find what interests you.
And please, don’t be afraid to ask questions, if you want to know about specific topics.
August 26th, 2009 at 9:01 pm
“it feels to me like Manila is always on your side – but will you be on hers?”
i couldn’t think of a better ending.
August 27th, 2009 at 11:39 am
Thanks Mon! :D
June 23rd, 2010 at 6:11 am
Thanks for that delightful account of my favorite city, Manila. I started a little old but at 73 I am traveling the world but still keep returning to Phillipines. I have been to Dumaguette but traveled north along the highway to stay with friends in a little house in the jungle. It was a wonderful place. Too peaceful for a long stay though.
If I were to live in the Philippines it would have to be Manila. My gf and I enjoy dropping in to LA Cafe and smiling at the activities on the first floor until the band starts then it is dancing upstairs.
I think P.I. has the most delightful people in the world.
Don
July 5th, 2010 at 3:06 pm
Don Burdett, I definitely agree with you regarding the delightful people of the Philippines! I always feel welcome there and having a good time with whomever I meet along the way.
October 28th, 2010 at 1:18 pm
[…] you could easily enjoy the crazy nightlife of Manila over a weekend without arriving there already […]
October 29th, 2010 at 9:32 am
How is the Salsa dancing scene in Manila? According to this page, http://www.salsapower.com/cities/manila.htm, there is the Cafe Havana Malate not too far from the Ermita area you stayed. If you happen to swing by Manila again, can you check it out for me? Thanks.
The funny thing with the Dominican Republic is that their Salsa is very weird kind with the guy stepping forward with right on 1. It’s not Cuban, LA, or New York style, and I can’t stand just dancing Merengue and Bachata.
January 27th, 2011 at 5:08 pm
Some update regarding the mentioned L.A. Cafe on corner M.H.del Pilar and Salas Street in Ermita/Malate: it is no more!
But wait, it’s still there: it’s just called now ‘Manila Bay Cafe’, everything else – topic, music, location, regulars, patrons – stay the same. There are some rumors that a few months ago the Manila Mayor had some troubles with the name of the venue and being a true-blue Pinoy threatened to close the place down.
That is what apparently happened also, when the owners refused to change the name to something more filippine, to pay the necessary bribes or whatever was the real reason of the irritations. So it was closed a few days (wow, that’s already tough, as the place was advertising itself, never to have closed for even 1 day in 10 years or so, as it’s 24/7), until renamed and reopened. No idea, if ownership changed also or some heads rolled or bullets were spent in the process. Anyone can share some light?
January 5th, 2013 at 9:25 pm
More fun in Ermita !!!!!